Bali

Where to surf in Bali

Bali is “The island of 1000 temples”, which the locals believe is blessed by the gods. The gods certainly have blessed the local surfers, because they live in a perfect, tropical surf paradise. Although 50 years of booming tourism development has drastically transformed the landscape and the line-ups, Bali remains an essential surfing experience.

There is no denying the quality and quantity of its surf, when SW swells wrap consistent lines around the Bukit Peninsula into straight offshore winds, creating a list of world-class lefts, including Uluwatu, Padang Padang and Bingin. These waves have achieved mythical status and are often regarded as a rite of passage for surfing purists. The other side of the peninsula comes alive in the so-called off-season, giving regular-footers some respite from backhand surfing at fringing reefs like Nusa Dua.

Then there's the reliable West Bali beachbreaks of Kuta, Legian and Canggu, where tourists have been learning to surf in the bath-warm waters since the 1930s when Bob Koke opened the first hotel on the untouched Kuta Beach. These days, surf tourists will travel up the West coast as far Medewi to hopefully escape the crowds that now throng the beaches all along the Kuta to Canggu stretch.

East Bali is where the rights rule, particularly at the high-octane WCT competition spot of Keramas. Down the coast, surrounded by high-rise hotels is the fickle but fantastic right racetrack at Sanur. And if that isn't enough, on the neighbouring island of Nusa Lembongan, there are tidally sensitive breaks like Shipwrecks and Lacerations, along with friendly rides at the aptly-named Playgrounds.

It's blindingly obvious that Bali has one of the highest concentration of quality waves on the planet. It’s geographical position mid-chain with the plunging depths of the Java Trench just offshore, along with the island-like symmetry of the Bukit peninsula poking into the regular SW swell train, offering offshore flexibility during the predictable trade wind seasons, are just two of the defining factors that make Bali’s surf so good. There’s a huge variety of wave types from sublime, coral-floored caverns to supine, sand-bottomed beachies that seem to bring the best out of surfers from complete beginners to budding pros. This microcosm of perfection has bred a couple of generations of supremely talented local surfers, who surf with a grace and ease that sits beautifully alongside the poise and unhurried approach to life that the general Balinese population exudes.